Lawyer-turned-baker-turned -entrepreneur Warren Brown has a lot to celebrate.

He's the man who's single-handedly giving New York City's Magnolia Bakery a run for its cupcake money. He's the owner of District dessert depots CakeLove and Love Café on U Street, steadily gaining converts to their brand of sugary survival. He's inspired Today Show host Ann Curry to eat cake on air and like it, and has even brought his cakes on Oprah. Inc. Magazine named Brown one of this year's 26 Most Fascinating Entrepreneurs alongside the likes of Martha Stewart, Michael Dell and Craigslist founder Craig Newmark. In September, Brown will open a new bakery in Silver Spring and there are plans for another in suburban Maryland. Marvelous Market has even started carrying his crack-like cupcakes (try one and you're hooked—I promise!). By 2007, he’ll publish a cookbook that will “take the mystery out of making cakes” for present and potential CakeLove fans.

Not all that bad, for someone who's only been at it in D.C. for 10 years—just imagine what the next 10 will bring!

SWEET BEGINNINGS

A Cleveland native, Brown came to Washington, D.C., in 1995 for law school, receiving his JD and a master's in public health in 1998. Initially, he went to work as a government lawyer, but wanting to exercise his creativity he bought a baking book and tried his hand at the sweet stuff. Turns out, not only did he excel at it, he and others loved his work.

He began moonlighting—"cakelighting," you might say—and eventually made the leap to full-time "cakeloving." Brown used seed money from his day job at the outset, but was eventually forced to secure a loan through the Small Business Administration. This allowed him to open the now ubiquitous CakeLove, a made-to-order bakery, in his neighborhood in March 2002. At first, he only employed a few volunteer part-time staff, but media attention drove his business and it grew. In August 2003, Love Café—a friendly cafe just made for sitting around all day working through your food coma after eating something savory and something sweet—across the street was born.

IN IT FOR THE LOVE

Business is booming in the U Street neighborhood, but Brown isn’t afraid of competition. In fact, he says that competition spurs more business. “It’s the cluster effect,” Brown states. The business owner hopes that U Street will continue to grow its selection of food and shopping options, and shows support for local businesses by participating in a “Shoppers' Social” every third Thursday of the month where businesses stay open later and offer specials to their customers (see our "On The Rack" column this month for details). Brown offers discounts on hot chocolate and cupcakes—if that doesn't put you in a happy mood to go spend money, I don't know what will!

When it's not Third Thursday, Love Cafe serves a growing U Street population. Brown reports seeing more breakfast and weekday lunch customers, in part prompting an expansion of his lunch menu. Lunch includes salads, soups and sandwiches in exotic flavors like tandoori tofu, with a selection of coffees and fruit smoothies. Breakfast boasts four flavors of fritatas and other hearty, start-your-day goodies.

And let's face it: the real reason you came in here is for dessert. You won't leave disappointed. Cupcakes, the house specialty, come in flavors like strawberry icing on chocolate cake and hazelnut spice on vanilla. Buzz Balls, a twist on the éclair, come in lemon and mango as well as chocolate on chocolate. Crunchy Feet, mini pound cakes, come in flavors like "Sassy," a cayenne inflected variety, or more traditional tastes. With regard to cakes, Strawberries & Cream (vanilla cake with vanilla buttercream icing and strawberries between the layers) and "My Downfall" (a cake advertised as a way for chocolate lovers to "gleefully take [their downfall] in stride") top the bestseller list.

NOW FOR DESSERT

It's OK to admire Brown and his work from afar—he's done a lot for the burgeoning neighborhood. But why would you want to? Let's eat!

CakeLove: 1506 U Street NW, 202-588-7100, cakelove.com.

Love Cafe: 1501 U Street NW, 202-265-9800.

If You Bake It, They Will Come

Got a tooth that's hungry for something...sweet? Here's some of our favorite spots for dessert in the area:

AROUND D.C. (MULTIPLE LOCATIONS)

Firehook Bakery (www.firehook.com) makes scary good $4 brownies, but this writer recommends their Seven-Layer Bar or the Presidential Sweet cookies (oatmeal, chocolate chips, dried cherries, pecans and coconut). Various locations including Dupont Circle (19th & Q), Capitol Hill (215 Penn.), Alexandria (two in Old Town) and more.

Marvelous Market (www.marvelousmarket.com) might be a bit of a yuppie mart, but it's just so yummy. From their coffee cakes to their flourless chocolate cake, there's a hundred happy-mouthed ways to blow a diet in here. Various locations including Great Falls and McLean, VA; downtown Bethesda; and several District spots.

Whole Foods (www.wholefoodsmarket.com) makes the best gingerbread I've ever had. Period. Tons of incredible cakes and cookies too.

Bread & Chocolate's many area locations (www.iexpediter.com/demo/brdnchoc/ffo.htm) have just that. My favorite treat? The pan au chocolat, of course. Various locations including Capitol Hill, Old Town Alexandria, Bethesda and Reston Town Center.

THE DISTRICT

Sticky Fingers Bakery (www.stickyfingersbakery.com) is the District's best source for vegan baked goods. With offerings like I Dream of Cheesecake and Chocolate Love Cake you'll feel warm and fuzzy—the jury's still out on whether it's from the animal friendliness or the sugar (substitute) high.

Dos Gringos (www.dosgringoscafe.com) is Mt. Pleasant's tiny but bustling haven that is worth the trip for its amazing, hot, icing-covered cinnamon rolls. Go, go now!

MARYLAND

The Rolling Pin in Bladensburg (301-699-9119) can bake its buns off, according to its loyal following. Don't miss the strawberry shortcake, carrot cake or various cupcakes.

Mark’s Kitchen in Takoma Park (301-270-1884) sells an assortment of cookies, muffins, pies, cakes and cheesecake. Try the vegan cheesecake.

VIRGINIA

Heidelberg Bakery, near Ballston (703-527-8394), has terrific pies, breakfast pastries, and those little tea cookies with the chocolatey, creamy icing plopped on top.

Pastries by Randolph on Lee Hwy in Arlington (703-243-0070) sells amazing cakes and pastries. Try the Mocha Zephyr or the Marble Mousse cake.

Alexandria Pastry Shop in the Bradley Shopping Center (703-578-4144) bakes mouthwatering cakes. Get the Triple Chocolate Mousse cake.