On the Vine On The Vine A taste of the local wine scene ![]() written by Lisa Espada I had the pleasure of meeting winemaker Bob Schiebelhut of California-based Tolosa Winery (www.tolosawinery.com) to discuss his vineyard’s sales venture into the D.C. area, and for a tasting of some of his top-quality estate-grown wines. Schiebelhut is a native Californian and has always wanted to own a vineyard. He is “a fully recovered attorney” who was based out of San Francisco. In 1988, he bought property in Edna Valley where he developed a close relationship with Romeo Zuech of Piedra Creek Winery, who became his mentor. Zuech told him, “You will never know how to grow good grapes unless you know how to make good wine,” and vice versa. In 1988, Schiebelhut made his first barrel of pinot noir in a fresh oak barrel. He’s never forgotten the intense smell of the oak. “My favorite wine is pinot noir,” Schiebelhut said. “There is no other red that offers the experience of taking in its versatility and its rose petal aromatics.” Schiebelhut began making the Tolosa brand in 1998. The name was derived as a tribute to Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa who established the first vineyard in Edna Valley two centuries ago and produced the most renowned wines of early California. Schiebelhut made 250 cases of wine the first year. In 1999, his pinot noir was named the best in the state of California at the State Fair in Sacramento. In 2000, he turned over Tolosa’s winemaking to, in his own words, “real winemakers.” His 2003 Pinot Noir was chosen No. 50 in the world by Wine Enthusiast magazine. He later encouraged Larry Brooks, a renowned in California as a winemaker and expert on winegrowing in the Edna Valley, to join the team. These days, Schiebelhut owns and manages more than 720 acres of vineyards in Edna Valley. The area offers warm days and cool nights and breezes from the nearby Pacific Ocean. Tolosa’s focus is on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and other varietals that thrive in this climate, producing intense results. The grapes can reach their full maturity to achieve an excellent depth and complexity. “We take the best 10 percent of everything we produce to make our wines,” said Schiebelhut. “Quality is of up most importance to us. All of our grapes are handpicked.” Schiebelhut loves creativity and it shows in his wines, and his wines glorify grapes grown in the Edna Valley. “We take what nature gives us every year and we do not try to alter it,” he said. “We really want to make wine that is honest to the grape varietal. We have first-class wine makers who are not trying to turn our grapes into something that they are not. Any winemaker should appreciate that. It’s a difference between good and great. My experience is that a business that has a long term perspective most often succeeds. We are in it for the long term. Because you never have to compromise—then it works. “You have to have humility,” Schiebelhut concluded. “No matter how hard you try, you’ll never make the perfect wine. You can never tame perfection. You are always trying to go beyond what you have. That’s why the pursuit never ends and that’s the fun of it.” SELECTIONS FROM TOLOSA WINERY 2004 Estate Grown Tolosa Chardonnay: 100% Chardonnay. This is a terrific food wine with no over oaking. Unusually hot weather brought the grapes to full ripeness. It is aged in French Oak barrels (Tolosa only uses French Oak). Enjoy aromas of honeysuckle, tangerine and lime blossom. 2005 Tolosa Chardonnay “No Oak”: 100% Chardonnay. This is a chardonnay that has never seen oak. Enjoy aromas of lime blossoms, white peach and tangerine fruit. It is incredibly flavorful and big on the palate with crisp acidity. The cool climate gives it an acidic and PH balance. As Schiebelhut said, “a great ‘cocktail wine.” “1772” 2003 Pinot Noir: 100% Edna Ranch Pinot. This wine is blended from only the very best select barrels, effectively selecting what they believe to be the finest regional representation of Pinot Noir for the vintage. The wine is extraordinary and what the winery believes is their finest Pinot Noir to date. With aromas of ripe blackberry. 2004 Estate Grown Tolosa Pinot Noir: 100% Edna Ranch Pinot Noir. This wine smells of crushed rose petal, dried cherry, and orange zest. It is incredibly smooth on the palate and has the distinct taste of bramble fruits. The French oak aging leads to a spice finish of nutmeg, clove and cardamom. “1772” 2003 Syrah: 100% Syrah. This extraordinary wine was blended from only select barrels. It is dense and rich, inky ruby in color this special Syrah combines aromas of blackberry and blueberry spice. Very velvety in its richness of dark berry fruit with round tannins and exceptional finish. This wine screams for chocolate. 2003 Estate Grown Tolosa Syrah: 100% Syrah. Rich and aromatic with white pepper and spice and intense cassis and black-plum flavors with a lingering finish. WINE EVENTS Join Taste DC on Dec. 2 for a celebration of the cuisine of Provence, known most notably for wines made with the Grenache and Mourvedre varietals. Learn how to prepare dishes from Provence (and receive detailed recipes) followed by a full lunch served by representative wines from this renowned area. The chef for this event is Executive Chef Craig Hartman who is a true Francophile and has worked along side such legendary world-class chefs as Ming Tsai, Marcus Samuelsson, Neal Gallagher and Mark Miller, and has assisted four times as the Guest Chef at the James Beard House in New York City. Lunch will be served after the cooking class and wine is included in the price. For more information, visit www.tastedc.com. Ballducci hosts a series of “Big Wine Events” during the month of December in the D.C. area. These are fun and informal gatherings of wine enthusiasts who like to trade recommendations, meet new friends, talk about pairings and sample a few good bottles while they’re at it. At the typical Big Wine Event, participants sample from a broad selection of wines from around the world. Special guests often include importers, winemakers and other wine professionals. Beginner or expert, there’s always a lot to learn (and sample). These events are free and open to the public and typically run from 2 to 5 p.m. For a list of upcoming events, visit www.suttongourmet.com/events/upcoming.html Chef Geoff’s hosts a weekly Wine Time Wednesday, with a flight of six wines available for $15. Each flight will follow a selected theme. On the last Monday of every month Chef Geoff’s features half-price special selections, with the right side of the wine list available at half price. Chef Geoff’s is located at 3201 New Mexico Ave. NW, Washington, D.C. For more information, call 202-237-7800 or visit www.chefgeoff.com Looking for a unique idea for an upcoming party or other get-together? Kelly Magyarics of Kelly Magyarics Wine Consulting can help with a wine tasting. She offers educational, interactive wine tastings in homes, businesses and other venues throughout Metro DC. Taste and learn about wines and wine growing regions of the world in a fun and non-intimidating setting. For more information, visit www.trywine.net GiraMondo Wine Adventures presents Dessert Wines and Chocolates from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. Dec. 13 at the Woman’s National Democratic Club (1526 New Hampshire Ave. NW, Washington). The group will taste dessert wines like Sauterne, Muscat and Vin Santo paired with different chocolates for each wine, followed by a farandole of desserts. Wine presentation by Laurent Guinand and chocolate presentation by Sandra Escobar, Chocolatier and owner of the Cocoa Tree LLC. Event cost is $59 per person. Must be over 21 to attend. For more information, visit www.giramondowine.com/adventures/upcoming-events. |