It’s a Thursday evening and fans buzz in each corner of the Market 5 Gallery Place. Despite the amiable weather outside, only slightly hot, with a cool, active breeze swathing Independence and 7th streets SE, the interior of the one-story brick building is sweltering. As Murat Erdemsel and Bill Griffiths take turns floating Michele Erdemsel around the dance floor, a wavy diamond of sweat bleeds through the back of Griffith’s light blue shirt. The middle-aged English teacher, his shock of gray hair moistening, his lips slightly parted to draw in a bit of extra breath, is obviously feeling the toll of the elevated temperature.

Even so, like the younger and more svelte Murat, his movements are smooth and calculated. This is the Argentine Tango, after all: A counter clockwise dance where the leader moves and turns, where the follower follows, and where, when you really get good, the dance talks. Error is not an option.

Michelle doesn’t seem as though she could make one. Sporting what looks like a 1920s flapper cut, the dancer’s Eastern-European features and doe eyes emphasize a unique beauty, a silent movie-era-actress, made-for-a-close-up attractiveness that makes her sensuous and deliberate movements seem all the more flawless.

The three, Murat and Michelle — the teachers — and Griffiths, the guy who runs the place, enjoy polishing their moves as the first few neophyte dancers trickle in. Above, huge, spherical Japanese lanterns are jostled by the fans, and caged, softly-white light-bulbs swing from an exposed ceiling. It’s as romantic of an atmosphere as a person could ask for. And it’s made all the more so when Griffiths strolls over to reveal the very secret of tango.
“It’s all about the embrace” he says.

THE DANCERS
Jake Spatz wants the beginners to get it. Shirt untucked, wearing sneakers and a wool cap, the former Brooklynite switches the music off. The energy and teaching style of he and his partner differs from that of Murat and Michelle. Where the latter duo talked over the music, and mostly expressed their lesson through movement, Spatz delves into concepts. He wants that night’s class, gathered in a semi-circle of nervous smiling, to understand the subtleties.

“When you dance, dance with meaning. Make your movements deliberate and slow. Everything can be broken down into pauses...steps...pivots...Keep the same distance. The same embrace. Keep your dignity”

Russian born with a pretty smile and ballerina’s physique, Irina, (who prefers her last name not be used) talks less than Spatz. Maybe it’s the Siberian accent that, even after 15 years in the States, still thickens her consonants. Irina says there are a lot of Russians hanging around the Tango scene. Asked why, she had a theory: You know how Russians get really close when they talk? Like this?” she asks, stepping past contrived boundaries.

“I think that’s why Russians in America like the tango, because its a way to get that closeness again.”

Beginner Wayne Estrada isn’t Russian, but he wants to get close to someone. He has a lady friend who has traveled the world dancing and studying Argentine Tango. He’s done a lot of ballroom, but the Argentine Tango is different — deeper. The corporate exec’s friend will arrive soon, and he wants to impress her by knowing more about her obsession. Estrada knows the romantic power of dancing. One day, as a young man out to dinner with his parents, his mechanic father surprised him by suddenly taking his mother onto the dance floor and gliding a perfect waltz.

“I knew I had to learn how to do that,” he explains.

Natalie Grissoni, who sits in one of the white folding chairs near Estrada after putting on tango shoes, answers her chirping cell phone. Despite the music swelling around her, she manages to hold a conversation in rapid French. She’s from Corsica. Her boyfriend introduced her to Tango. She got hooked. A regular at Eastern Market dances, she knows the scene. “Tonight there will be a few less women” she says, “because it’s too cold to wear a skirt.” Whenever Grissoni visits France she likes to get some dancing in, last year she had fun dancing the Tango in Paris.

“Like the movie,” she laughs.

Now an international phenomenon, “Tango” once referred to the places where black slaves gathered to dance in the Argentinian capital of Buenos Aires. As the cultures of Spanish, Italian, British, Polish and Russian immigrants influenced these gatherings, new steps emerged. Eventually, hipsters called “compadritos” — in flashy clothes and carrying knives — helped spread them to city dance clubs. In the early 1900s the tango and its risqué “embrace” took hold of Europe. By the 1930s it was known worldwide.

Every Thursday at Eastern Market, whether it’s fleece or tank top weather, the intimate tradition carries on. Classes happen at 7 and 8 p.m. After that, the lights dim, and the more experienced dancers show up. The Milonga will go on till morning, not worrying about the cold, not concerned with the eviction, only about the next pivot.

“People come here because they learn from happiness,” Griffiths says as he watches, “this is beautiful to me.”

PLACES TO GO TANGO IN AND AROUND DC

Most Tango spots offer classes followed by a Milonga (tango party). Classes are usually about $10 to $15, with the option of staying for the Milonga. Already an expert? Skip the classes, pay the cover and stroll in with the veteran dancers. Here’s a schedule for a full week of tango in the D.C. area.

Monday: Start your week off right by visiting the Milonga at the Cococabana Grill from 9 p.m. to midnight. $15. 2031A University Blvd. Hyattsville, MD www.cococabanagrill.com.

Tuesday: Check out the Eighteenth Street Lounge, its Milonga runs from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m. $10. 212 18th St., NW Washington, DC (intersection of Connecticut Ave.). www.isaacsharna.com The place is in a restored town house mansion, look for “the gold room.”

Wednesday: U16 Milonga is perhaps as well known as the Eastern Market Milonga, it runs from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m. $10. Local 16 Bar and Grill at U and 16th St., NW, DC. www.MilongaU16.com.

Thursday: The Eastern market Milonga runs from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m., but sometimes runs longer. $10. Eastern Market 7th and North Carolina Ave., SE Washington, DC.

Friday: If you decide not to stop by the excellent classes taught by Spatz and Irina at Hot Yoga, visit the 9 p.m. to 1 a.m. Milonga at the Crown Cultural Center. $13. 2820 Dorr Ave.,  Fairfax, VA. www.tangodc.com

Saturday: Take a break from all the Milongas and get in some free practice from 3 to 5 p.m. at the West End Library: 1101 24th Street, NW (at L Street) Washington, DC. www.dctangopractica.blogspot.com

Sunday: After your day of practice head to the Milonga at Smokie Joe’s Café to show what you’ve learned, dancing from 3 to 5 p.m.: $10. 11 South Second St., Warrenton, VA. Call Kim Bosch van Drakenstein, 703-868-0982.

For more info on where to Tango, visit www.tangodc.com.